Four New Skincare Ingredients You Need to Know About

Just when we think we’ve gotten our skincare routine down to a science and know the difference between a double cleanse and master cleanse, another much-hyped ingredient hits our social media feed making us wonder if we’re doing enough.  Fulvic acid?  Fermented yeast?  Gotu kola?  Did we miss something?  Should we be doing more?  Are we missing a holy grail *fill-in-the-blank* item that will improve our skin and change our lives?

Well ladies, while we don’t recommend splashing your face with emu oil, there are definitely some new ingredients that are worth a look along with a few tips on how to incorporate into your daily skincare routine.

Copper Peptides

What are they?

Peptides are fragments of proteins which are the fundamental building blocks of skin.  Copper peptides serve as an antioxidant and is most often found in serum-based products.

How do they help?

Copper peptides can help promote collagen and elastin production and remove damaged collagen and elastin from the skin.  Quite simply, it can help with skin firmness, smoothness, reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.  It’s ideal for anyone with hyper-pigmentation issues as well.

Our Tip

It’s best to use a copper peptide–infused serum rather than one in isolated form.  We’re fans of Medik8 Copper PCA Peptides (serum which includes the ingredient matrixyl, another powerful antioxidant.  We also like the “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1% (it also contains vitamin C) from The Ordinary.

It’s a stellar product that doesn’t break the bank so you can try it guilt-free.  Peptide serums are generally lightweight and unscented, so you can use it morning and night as one of your first layers.

Mandelic Acid

What is it?

Derived from bitter almonds, mandelic acid is a milder form of alpha hydroxy acid (AHAs).  It’s gentler than other AHAs (i.e., glycolic and lactic acids) so it’s well suited for sensitive skin types.

How does it help?

As with any chemical exfoliant, it works by dissolving dead skin cells and encouraging cell turnover.  The result is brighter, clearer skin. In fact, it’s been shown to reduce melasma (hyperpigmentation) by as much as 50% in four weeks[1], resulting in a more even complexion. If you’re prone to occasional breakouts or have minor pigmentation issues yet have found traditional AHAs too harsh, then mandelic acid could be a great alternative.

Our Tip

Mandelic acid can be used as part of your evening skincare routine, after cleansing and before moisturizing.  Or you can opt for an easy to use treatment, such as Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Ultra Gentle Daily Peel or a weekly mask like GlamGlow’s SUPERMUD Clearing Treatment.

Snail Mucin

What is it?

We know what you’re thinking.  Snail what??  Yes, snail mucin is the actual mucus snails secrete.  We know, it sounds gross, but there’s some hard science behind using snail slime on your skin.  So, hear us out for a second.

How does it help?

Sometime back in 400 B.C., Hippocrates discovered that crushed snail shells into an ointment helped reduce inflammation.  More than 2000 years later, snail farming has become a thing.  Super popular in the K-Beauty world, snail mucin is packed with nutrients such as hyaluronic acid, glycoprotein enzymes, antimicrobial and copper peptides and proteoglycans.  That means you get a ton of hydration along with collagen-stimulation for softer, smoother skin.

Our Tip

Stay out of your backyard and try a more user-friendly daily toner or essence.  It’s gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types.  We are partial to COSRX highly reviewed Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence.  It’s light, fresh and really delivers the dewy, glowy look we love.

Bakuchiol

What is it?

Bakuchiol is derived from the leaves and seeds of the babchi plant, an herb commonly used in Indian Ayurvedic and Chinese medicines.  Studies have shown that this powerful plant-based extract is an ideal alternative to retinol and well-suited to sensitive skin types.

How does it help?

Much like retinol, bakuchiol encourages skin cells to create several types of collagen that are useful in skin health and anti-aging.  But since it has little effect on oil glands, you won’t risk dryness or irritation.  And because of bakuchiol’s natural composition, it’s safe to use with other products in your skincare regimen.

Scientific studies done thus far are extremely positive.  In fact, the National Institute of Health reported the following, “Bakuchiol and retinol both significantly decreased wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between the compounds. Retinol users reported more facial skin scaling and stinging.”[1]

Our Tip:

If you haven’t incorporated an evening retinol product because of redness or irritation, then it’s time to rejoice.   Like retinol, you can apply bakuchiol topically before your regular moisturizers or serums.  One to try is Omorovicza Miracle Facial Oil which is also super hydrating, leaving the skin soft and supple.

Do you have a new skincare ingredient you swear by?  If so, let us know in the comments below!

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[1] https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29947134/
[1] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5724304/